Hidden Wonders: The Long Hike to Waimanu

Waimanu

Muliwai Trail to Waimanu - 17.5 Miles Roundtrip

My younger brother is a painter. Excited about finding a subject for his next painting, he hoped the Muliwai trail to Waimanu would give him some stellar landscapes. We got up before dawn in our board shorts and hoodies, coffee thermos in hand and drove from Kona to Waipio Valley. We watched the sun rise in Waimea next to a snow capped Mauna Kea cooling the air to 51. 

Bold blue skies stretched overhead in Waipio as we bounced along the 4WD road down into the valley. Stepping out on the black sand beach we reevaluated the contents of our single rugged backpack. Bare essentials mostly comprised of photography equipment, leaving room for our hoodies as the day warmed up. 

Waipio Valley

The fresh water river dividing the black sand beach was our first traverse. Normally not a worry but my camera was only protected by a zip lock bag. A little slippery and I froze with fear. I could hear my brother telling me it was okay, keep going but it was so faint by the sound of the waves. I felt for sand between the rocks and kept going. 

Waipio Valley

Rainbow Waves

Surfer - Waipio Valley

Surfer - Waipio Valley

The waves swelled and crashed on the beach. Surfers ran past us, boards tucked under their arms. We did get a little distracted by the sets coming in. We found the black sand trail behind the first windbreak of pines to take us to the Muliwai trailhead. The handpainted sign provided helpful information. =) 

Waimanu Trail Marker

The sun had only begun to warm the air and as we walked under trees the cool breeze kept us at a steady pace. As the climb began to gain altitude, the rocks became larger to scale. My breathing began to labor and I started to fall a little farther behind my brother. 

By the time we reached the first lookout at a break in the tree line, our hoodies were in the backpack. What a beautiful day!

Waipio Valley Outlook

As we made our way up the Z, the terrain changed to a cedar forrest. It felt like another world. If someone had dropped me there blindfolded, I would not have guessed I was in Hawaii. Generations of twisted trunks reaching up through the carpet of ferns.  The path winding through an untouched landscape of giant trees with canopies filling the sky. 

Plethora of these Signs Along the Way

The landscape continued to change as we hiked around the bends. Each valley with water cutting through it from streams to rivers to waterwalls that ran over the trail. Though we choose a very sunny day, the air was cool past the Z trail due to the high elevation and tree canopy. Hoodies back on! 

Waterfall continuing under the trail and down the Valley

There is a serious cause for caution when hiking during the rainy season or with possible rain in the forecast, which is very common in this area. Flash floods would make the trail impassable. There isn’t an alternate way out besides helicopter rescue. Should the rivers rage, you would be stuck until they subside. There is no cell service in this area or the area where you park. 

The Coolest Tree

Another creek stretching over the trail

Giant Trees

Another non-fun detail to be aware of is the mosquitos. They are fierce and aggressive! I am normally not bothered by mosquitos. I have no reaction to their sticks but these swarmed me. Mosquitos are attracted to both the carbon dioxide you breath out and your sweat. You will be admitting both heavily on this hike and they can smell you coming from over 30 feet away. My brother wore dark leggings under his board shorts which worked for him. I just put on my hoodie when it cooled off and tried to keep a move on through the excessively populated areas. Sit down on a log and they will come for you with all their blood sucking friends. They didn’t exist everywhere on the trip though, so you will have a break. 

Turkey Tail Mushrooms

Around mile 6 my shoes came off. Around mile 8 my knee went out, followed my the other knee. The pain was quite unbearable and I begin to switch up my walking style searching for some relief. It could have originated in my hips from constant incline, decline while climbing rocks and stepping up and over large roots. But I had injured my knee a few years back and sometimes on these long hikes, it starts to get sore again. I hadn’t remembered to bring my muscle salve. Far away from the truck and in it for the long haul, I stopped at each ice cold river to soak my knees which provided some brief numbing relief. When I try this again, I’m bringing the salve and maybe a brace. I have also since learned a few stretches to do at intervals that have seriously helped on shorter incline hikes lately. 

I mention this so that you can be more prepared than I was. This is an intense hike, not a casual stroll through the woods. But even though it ranks in the top 5 most painful experiences of my life, I would still do it again. It’s that incredible. 

Trail goes under fallen trees that have continued to grow.

Tea Tree Forrest

                                 

At around mile 8.5 is the Waimanu Valley with a long black sand beach and an abundance of towering waterfalls thoughout the valley normally only seen by helicopter. The view is unbelieveable. It looks like no where else on the Big Island and rivals views on Kauai and Maui. These were taken at the trail before the desend. We were on a day hike and needed to immediately head back since it was approaching 2pm at this point. When I do this again, I would obtain a camping permit so that I could stay in the Valley and enjoy the Waterfalls. This would also break up the hike to 8 miles a day instead of 17 which may have saved my knees. One of the few couples we passed on the hike had camped over night and said they would have stayed two nights had they known how amazing it was. Especially being able to swim under the waterfalls and having the whole place to themselves. 

Waimanu view from the trail before the desend.

Waimanu

Waterfall Valley

Waimanu Black Sand Beach

Half way into the hike back, I was crying from the pain. We’d timed it to get back before night fall but my constant resting breaks and cold water soaks was making that look less and less likely. Every step forward hurt, especially downhill. I tried crawling, crab walking, walking backwards. I probably walked a half mile backwards so I didn't have to bend my knees. I WAS PRAYING!!! By the last mile, my brother was carrying me on his back down the steep rock paths on the Z and the sun was no longing lighting the way. It was nostalgic for me as I am 12 years older than my brother and I used to carry him in baby sligs and backbacks when I was young. He was definitely my hero that day. If you are wondering why there are not pictures of my brother on here. He asked that I not post any online. He didn't say anything about baby pictures. 

When it was really sketchy, I crab walked and he joined me in solidarity and we laughed and laughed. Giving up was not allowed, no one could come and get me. There was no bringing the truck around, I had to get down this cliff. Our eyes adjusted to the full moon light but we did use our cell phones on the path simply because of the root and lava rock factor. You could very easily break a toe or sprain an ankle and neither of us needed that added risk. For you I say, even if you only plan the day like, bring flashlights just in case! It would be very easy to be distracted by the overwhelming beauty of this place and stay out too long. 

The river we’d walked through that morning had increased with the tide and I was freaked out to walk through it in the dark. The current was strong and cold leading into the ocean. Slow and steady I stepped in. My knees loved it, the rest of me not so much. Locals were night fishing, and a few camp fires in the distance gave me lights to head towards. I’ve never been so happy to reach a destination. My brother turned to me to say, 'So you wanna do it again next weekend?". 

Hiking Time: 12hrs 

Miles: 17.5 

Incline: 298 flights of stairs

Health: Hips out of Alignment

All photos and videos ©Sarah Bello 2020 All Rights Reserved